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Among their classics aged and new: Fats chow funn, noodles as chewy as mochi, which has a veneer of crisp; honey walnut shrimp in fluffy, shattery clouds of batter, slaked with sweet mayo; crackly edged “Spam” made out of Duroc pork; and, for dessert, pale blushing lychee granita, which has a cache of sizzling pink dragon fruit ready to general

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